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While they are open for lunch and dinner, there are no set times. Northway wants locals to drop in, grab a coffee or a cocktail, read the newspaper or catch up with some friends, have a drink at the bar and grab some snacks or settle into the dining room.
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Large undulating windows offer a view across to the bay and there is seating for 65 inside, with another 60 outside. A central bar separates dining from drinking areas with cream walls and subdued lighting throughout. Pink paving runs through the restaurant and dusky pink banquette seats curve around the windows in the bar area like a rolling wave. Inspiration for the fit-out came from Northway’s own Mediterranean travels, and he worked closely with design studio Mitchell & Eades to create the feeling of being away on holiday.
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There are also local craft beers, and restaurant manager Dane Crofts has sorted the wines, favouring mainly Victorian producers using varieties you might not ordinarily come across: a dolcetto or gamay or an obscure pet nat, plus some international offerings. “It’s a perfect Martini for someone who doesn’t drink Martinis,” says Northway. Apart from the sea urchin Martini, the Loti Martini is made with gin, ice wine to play around the ice theme, orange bitters and orange oil. There’s a coastal take on the Aperol Spritz using Ruby Bitter from Single Batch in place of the Aperol, with grapefruit and honey house kombucha topped with bubbles or a yuzu sour. Owner Cameron Northway (who co-owns Rocker, Bondi) has brought in Matt Linklater ( Black Pearl) to oversee the drinks. “So we are making a sea urchin butter-washed Martini.” “We went diving for sea urchins,” says Holland. Holland’s ethos also flows into the drinks, which also incorporate the fruits of the foraging.
Will it be the Daintree chocolate magnum, made with roasted chestnuts, roasted chestnut ice-cream with a little bit of chestnut brandy and a centre of chestnut and anise myrtle jam? Or the lemon-scented tea tree marshmallow dessert which reminds Holland of growing up on the northern beaches, having bonfires and eating gummy bears? Blood orange and finger lime marshmallow sorbet, yuzu and pomelo marshmallow sorbet are topped with smoked lemon-scented tea tree marshmallow and lots of smashed citrus pearls and served with macadamia and honey gummy bears. The dessert menu brings with it some hard decisions. “We like to have a bit of theatre to the food to make it fun for both guests and staff,” Holland tells Broadsheet. The lobster is served filled with this pasta but cut in a way that you can rip off the legs and smash it. A rich stock is made from the meat and juices from the head, and this is used to cook kelp pasta with fresh chives and tarragon and chervil, and a little bit of lemon juice and cream. The meat is taken out, the tail butter-poached with lemon-scented tea tree oil and butter, and then put between two sheets of bull kelp and barbequed over the fire, which steams it and makes it really juicy. There are also fun specials, such as whole southern rock lobster. A barbeque rack of turbot ribs is topped with sea parsley crust, grilled cos, capers and caper leaves from South Australia with old man saltbush and little white flowers.
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It comes out with the frozen ceviche sauce on top which you crack in half and then the remaining sauce is poured over. Red emperor is cured in desert lime juice and served with smoked and dried olives collected by the team, with a little of their own house-pressed olive oil and roast capsicum oil, wild garlic, marsh saltbush and some aromats from the beach. The Loti “ice rink”’ ceviche is Spanish in style and references the “lady of the ice” name.
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Holland originally learned how to make ceviche from a Peruvian, but has since travelled to Spain and learned some fun takes. Or the butter-poached and grilled scampi tail glazed with Holland’s bull kelp soy sauce and skewered on a little coastal daisy bush twig so that when it’s barbequed, the perfume from the daisy comes through.Įntrees feature raw and fresh dishes. Holland recommends starting with small one-biter snacks, like the smoked yellowfin tuna mousse savoury cornetto topped with a little shaved albacore tuna mojama and some beach succulents collected from the coastline.
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